The Dordogne

Cutting across country, we entered Souillac and then followed the D703 by the side of the Dordogne. The scenery was stunning and, yet again, proved the value of keeping to D and N roads where possible. We turned left outside Calviac-en-Perigord soon reaching Carsac-Aillac. Here we found a recently restored church with lighting arranged so that it came on when entering the building.

The picture fails to do it justice though the outside of the church was equally impressive

Leaving Carsac-Aillac behind we soon entered la Roque-Gageac in its  magnificent location. Often little more than a row of riverside houses squeezed between the Dordogne river in front and sheltered
below the overhanging cliffs behind, it is truly a 'picture postcard' village.

La Rocque-Gageac

With ample parking space along the river we were able to spend some time walking through the narrow streets as they climb through an interesting tropical garden. 

Towards the Tropical Gardens

Apparently, the palm trees and banana plants are possible to grow because the village is south facing and protected from north winds by the cliffs. Of interest are the troglodyte caves set in the cliffs above the village.

Following a very enjoyable lunch, we moved on towards Le Bugue, our next night halt, Les Trois Caupain is a lovely flat site on the outskirts of the town. Again, quiet out of season, we enjoyed a stroll past a farm museum and acquarium to the town centre.

Early the following morning we left and headed north, stopping at Oradour-sur-Glane, a village whose occupants had been massacred by the SS in 1944. It proved a fascinating but moving and harrowing experience. The village has been left as it was after the massacre and it is accessed underground through a museum which carefully describes what had happened.

Late afternoon we arrived at Civray to find the site unmanned and travelled on to Ruffec where we found the perfect farm site, Camping a la Ferme (Peloquin)

Here we met an English couple in a caravan who were very interested in our motorhome. We left the site at about 10am the following morning after chatting again to caravanning friends. It proved a lovely journey notable for the autumn colours. Following shopping at a huge supermarket, we arrived at the next site in Montreuil-Bellay. The site, Camping Les Nobis, was completely empty and was well placed close to the town between the castle and the river.

Following a walk up to the village along a most attractive flight of steps

we walked to the castle

and enjoyed superb views across the valley from the ramparts.

We returned to the motorhome and read prior to a walk up the river before dinner. The next day we were heading for Saumur.