Our Autotrail Cheyenne

Our Autotrail Cheyenne

Tuesday 15 November 2011

Nearer to Home

In our caravanning days we tended not to stray from home during the winter months but motorcaravanning has extended the season appreciably. This might also have something to do with retirement!
Mid October, we headed for the north Norfolk coast at Cromer. We have longstanding friends in Norfolk and the trip provided an opportunity to meet up whilst also re-aquainting ourselves with an attactive part of the country. We love travelling abroad but it can be easy to forget just how attractive is our own country, particularly when the weather is kind. This, indeed, proved to be the case for our three days away. We stayed at the Caravan Club site at Seacroft which is within easy walking distance of Cromer.


With the tide in, there were some excellent opportunities to take seascapes using the pier as a backdrop.

At the beginning of November, we travelled down to the New Forest for a couple of nights prior to moving on to the Caravan Club site at Baltic Wharf in Bristol. The site at Black Knowl in the New Forset is superb both with regard to the high quality and also the position. The walk into nearby Brockenhurst proved a delight. Again, the weather was excellent and you could not have a more attractive time of the year to walk through the forest particularly since we enjoyed the company of so many New Forest ponies.

It was, though, Baltic Wharf that we had wanted to visit for sometime. Because of its easy access to Bristol, this is always a popular site, invariably fully booked. We were lucky. Not only did they have two clear nights but, on arrival, they were able to confirm a further night. The site is a must. Positioned on the banks of the river, it is a tenty minute walk along the newly developed port area into the old town passing the superb SS Great Britain exhibition on the way.

We couldn't resist a morning exploring the exhibition and admiring the skill of Brunel who was so far ahead of his time. The Great Britain ended its sailing days in the Falkland Isles and it was from here that they refloated onto a pontoon and successfully sailed all the way back to the berth where it was originally built in Bristol. A wonderful achievement.




Now safely esconced in the dry dock, you are able to walk under the boat to admire the sheer scale whilst also visiting the adjacent museum prior to touring the fully restored ship itself. Nineteenth century sea travel could not have been as easy option but you can appreciate the relative luxury for the first class passengers travelling to New York in the early days of the ship's life whilst also sympathising with the far more cramped steerage living accommodation for those many emigrants to Australia later in the century.

We enjoyed looking around the old city and the third day allowed us to dust off the bus passes and take a trip to Bath. There can be few more attractive cities and we delighted in touring the Roman Baths many years after our first visit.


It never fails to impress us how much the quality of exhibitions has improved over the years. There is real attention to detail and the evocative displays and reconstructions cannot fail to provide a real insight into the lived of past generations.

Our short holidys to Norfolk and Bristol have been well worthwhile leaving us with keen anticipation for our final brealk of the year to Chatsworth in Derbyshie at the beginning of December.



 

Tuesday 4 October 2011

Prague, Vienna and Salzburg

Saturday 28th August, we travelled down to Dover to stay overnight at our usual CL at Lenacre Court Farm prior to catching the ferry in the morning. Late in the afternoon we were joined by our friends.
We caught the early ferry at 6.40am with Sea France and enjoyed a calm crossing. Since our friends had not visited Bruge, we agreed to stop there on our way to our first site outside Ghent. Parking in Bruges was straightforward though the dedicated motorhome park was closed at 10.00am so we had to park up in the coach park opposite. No problem but not cheap. It was a fairly short walk into the town centre which was just as we remembered it from some years ago.




After four hours or so, and a relaxing lunch in the square, we travelled on to Camping  Blaarmeersen, Gent for our first night. The site, which is clean and well organised, is situated by a lake which we walked around during the evening.


The following day we travelled on to Moncheau in Germany arriving at about 2pm at Perlenau.  After lunch we walked into the town which proved a delight.






Feeling lazy, we caught a bus back to the site which was well positioned in woodland by the side of the river. It was the first of several ACSI sites which really are excellent value. The weather remained dry though it was quite cool.
Travelling along the Mosel valley the following morning proved an excellent, picturesque route and we delighted in stopping for a picnic lunch en route. Camping Wetzlar, two kilometres from the town of Wetzlar proved an excellent overnight stop. Situated by the river, there is a pleasant riverside walk into the town which has little to commend it but the local supermarket proved useful.


Though we had agreed to avoid motorways where possible, there was a long way to travel and the autobahn was at least quiet and took us through varying scenery. We were delayed as a result of road closure which unnerved out TomTom a lttle though we did find a small park in a village to have our lunch. We eventually arrived at our ACSI site, Stausee Hohenfelden, near Kranichfeld at about 3.30pm. It was a lovely day, warm and sunny, and we all enjoyed a walk around the reservoir.


Friday 2nd September was to be our first two night stop enabling us to visit Colditz. The journey there had its problems again as consequence of road closures but we safely arrived at Campingplatz am Waldbad at 3pm. To our shame, we have very little German and the lady who greeted us had no English but sign language works well in such situations and my wife enjoyed a friendly hug after “negotiating” the pitches. The site was again quiet and extremely friendly. Jan and I walked into Colditz through woodland and refreshed ourselves with a beer in the very attractive square.




Colditz castle looked formidable though now painted white slightly less forbidding than it must have been during the war.


The following morning we all walked into the town to visit the castle. We were offered a private guide which we gladly accepted and there followed a two hour tour of the site which was excellent value at 15 euros per head. Our guide proved extremely informative and was clearly very proud of her heritage. It was fascinating learning about the various escape routes and seeing firsthand the near impossible tunnel exits. For those travelling across Germany to the Czech Republic a short diversion to Colditz is well worth the detour. We enjoyed a lunch of frankfurters at the local hostelry prior to returning to the castle to tour the museum which has recently been established and continues to develop.
That evening, I cooked our meal for the second time on our recently purchased “Cadac”. This wonderful cooking implement was recommended by friends who also motorhome. It is much easier and cleaner than a barbecue and, to my mind, produces food of equal quality.


Sunday 4th September saw us leave Colditz for the Czech Republic and Prague. Always a good day to travel, the roads were quiet and the journey to the border straightforward. We had read that you can collect the necessary motorway vignette at the border and so it proved to be with a dedicated stop on the motorway for this purpose. At a cost of 14 euros, it seemed reasonable value. We had decided to keep to main routes whilst in the Czech Republic having read about potential difficulties if you stray on to minor roads. As a consequence there were few problems though don’t expect the road surface to be as smooth as in the “west”. The countryside proved interesting if unspectacular with miles of forest and agricultural land ripe for further development.


Our ACSI site for Prague, at Sunny Camp, proved ideal, flat, spacious pitches out of season and secure. The excellent underground was a reasonable walk from the site and the very straightforward and regular journey into the centre took about twenty minutes. To access the site though from the north you do need to negotiate the centre of Prague which had its challenges, not least because the language on the road signs was so completely unfamiliar.


Prague is a delightful city even with the very obvious tourist development over recent years. We purchased  two 24 hour travel tickets  from reception which covered all transport costs and from a cafe in the old centre bought a ticket to cover the main tourist attractions. At half price of 125 Czeck Kuronas for over 65s this proved excellent value providing access to the Basilica, Old Palace, Gold Lane and the Castle. During the afternoon we attended a concert at the Lubovotz Palace which proved a delight. Even torrential rain on the way back to the metro failed to dampen the spirits but certainly saturated the body.






The following day we returned to the city in bright sunshine and just enjoyed wandering around including a visit to the Jewish quarter. After a generous three course lunch of local fare we walked out of the main tourist area to find the John Lennon Wall – quirky, but worth a visit, and finally strolled back to the metro to complete our two days of sightseeing.


We decided to make Vienna in one leg. Quite a long journey ensued through miles of forestation on the motorway which suffered from a very poor surface and became quite tiresome. Collecting a vignette for the Austrian motorways proved as easy as it was entering the Czech Republic though this time we purchased at a  service area prior to the border. I think for the first time in all of our travels abroad, our chosen site was full so we drove on to their sister site at Tulln an der Donau. Though Donaupark Camping, another 15 euro ACSI site, was further out from Vienna it was nevertheless well served by a direct rail route and was also a very pleasant town in its own right. The site itself was well maintained with level pitches arranged in circles around central water facilities. The neighbouring swimming and sports facilities are also free to camp site guests though we failed to take advantage of the offer.


Having purchased some concert tickets by ‘phone, we were left with the challenge of finding the booking office in Vienna this morning. Not as easy as it appeared we eventually found the office and then spent the rest of the day looking round the Old Town. Vienna is a large city, a statement of the obvious which is complemented by the size of the buildings. St Stephen’s Cathedral is certainly worth a look and we also enjoyed a free organ recital at St Peter’s Church.






The Royal Buildings are extremely impressive. All in all, it was a very pleasant day in a city which certainly did not disappoint.
We decided to stay at the campsite the following day and explore the area on our bikes. This was made much easier as a result of cycle paths which are so more developed than in the UK. We cycled for some twenty miles down the Danube thoroughly enjoying the varied scenery. Tulln itself proved a busy and interesting small town which has clearly made a real effort to promote itself.


Our fourth and final day at the site saw us catching the train back into Vienna and on to the Schonbrun Palace. Travelling is made much easier through the purchase of a day ticket which allowed use of the full transport network. Schonbrun Palace is spectacular and fully deserved a full day.






The buildings themselves were worth the tour but the gardens and the resulting views of Vienna were superb. If there was a slight downturn it was the weather which was extremely hot. Late afternoon we caught the train back into the City and thoroughly enjoyed a meal in a restaurant hidden away in a cobbled street in the old quarter prior to joining our friends for the concert which proved excellent. I have a feeling that we might be re-visiting Vienna at some point.
Sunday 11th September saw us set off for Salzburg on another very hot day. The scenery became much more mountainous and we past some very interesting sights en route including Melk Monastery. Camping Nord Sam, another ACSI discount site is ideally situated for the city.The site  proved quite tight though the pitches were well screened and of a reasonable size. Following our arrival, we decided to off load the bikes and entire into the town. In fact, this proved an excellent decision. The dedicated cycle route followed the river all the way into town, the only hazard being the many other cyclists all more proficient than we are. Not for the first time we were aware of how much more seriously cycling ion taken on the continent with most towns in Austria and Germany enjoying their own dedicated cycling routes. It seems that in this area, the UK still has a long way to go. Our first impressions of Salzberg were not good with every appearance of a town committed to meet the needs of the tourist whilst sacrificing it's own values but we determined to return again the following day.


The following morning we purchased the excellent Salzberg card which provides access to all the attractions and includes transport costs. The bus dropped us at the bus station which conveniently left us with a short walk to the Mirabelle Gardens on the way to the main town. Well worth the visit the gardens were resplendent with bedding pants in coloured blocks arranged around fountains and impressive statues.




Walking into town we first visited Mozart's birthplace and its fascinating array of memorabilia and artefacts. Next on the list was the Cathedral with its ornate plaster work. The surrounding area is full of charm with cobbled streets, large squares and lovely architecture. Lunch was taken at the castle following a trip on the funicular. The views from the castle Walls over Salzburg were amazing mirroring the panoramic view we had enjoyed on a visit to another display in town earlier in the day.




Back down the funicular we enjoyed a relaxing cruise up the river. Finally, we visited the second Mozart home prior to heading back tired but replete to the camp site. Salzburg is not to be missed.
 
With a touch of sadness, leaving Salzburg behind, we travelled on through the Austrian Tyrol under a glorious blue sky. High mountains and Swiss type calets added to the scenic beauty. We arrived at a lovely site at Weer mid afternoon. Alpenhorn Camping Mark is probably one of the most idyllic sites we have visited.









The view to the distant mountain ranges across the valley was spectacular and the site iteslf sat amongst open countryside. 









Following a short walk around the local village, we settled down for the evening.

The following morning we set off on the next leg of our journey taking in the tolled Alsberg tunnel. Emerging from this eight miles of remarkable engineering, we found the skies overcast and the mountains shrouded in mist. With little persuasion needed, we decided to miss our planned stop outside Bludenz and head for Salem. Sadly, on arrival here, the site appeared cramped and very busy so we agreed to head on to a site in the Bodensee Valley about 20 km further on. This proved a sound decision. The valley was beautiful en route with the added bonus of a stop at a huge pumpkin shop which also stocked a wide range of fresh fruit. The site at Stockach, Freizeitpark Papiermuhle, cost a mere 10 euro and was essentially an overnight motorhome halt. Though basic we enjoyed all the usual facilities whilst also being entertained by workmen who were equipping a new pylon with the necessary wiring and insulators. Though most were wearing safety harness it was not a job for the faint hearted.
We left early and headed for the Black Forest. The scenery through the Bodensee Valley proved spectacular and we finally arrived at our next site at Schapback at 2.30 pm. Though the site was closed we identified a couple of pitches and decided to have lunch to await the return of the warden. We were suddenly surrounded by a group of excited Germans who finally managed to communicate that they were part of a rally and all the pitches were taken though they were not sure when others would arrive! Keen to avoid a diplomatic incident, we decided to move on. We continued into the Black Forest through picturesque villages and delightful countryside until we arrived at Dornsetton.






As seems so often the case out of what appears to be misfortune comes good fortune. Hohencamping Konigskanzel stands atop a hill as opposed to the rather dank riverside position of the previous site. Again the pitches were level and open surrounded by trees. Throughout the holiday, we have been fortunate with our Oyster satellite dish and this site proved no exception. Though we had lost BBC in the Czech Republic and Austria as we moved west again this had returned. It was quite a long haul down to the town but the centre certainly warranted a return trip the following morning.






The weather proved kind and we enjoyed a lovely lunch in the village square with our travelling partners under a bright blue sky.
 
We arrived at our ACSI site in Luxembourg at about 3.30pm following a pleasant though long journey made more challenging as a result of various road closures and subsequent detours. The site, Bon Accueil Kat.1 proved excellent. It was the first time we had booked ahead following our unfortunate episode in Vienna and the allocated pitches proved ideal. in fact, there had been no need to book but it was surprising how full the site became the following day.

After a quiet evening strolling around the neighbouring park, the following day we caught the bus into the city centre. It was some years since we had been to Luxembourg and it was good to reacquaint ourselves with this attractive and clean city. Though the weather was cooler and showery we managed a coffee in the square listening to a band and later lunch with the benefit of outdoor heaters. It is remarkable how the temperature has dropped over the last couple of days. The old city is all within strolling distance and there are many fine buildings including the cathedral.




The following day we set off for the municipal site at Signy L'Abbaye. The journey through the Ardennes was particularly attractive. We stopped en route at the Citadel at Montmedy.






Now rather unkempt this huge structure had been built in the late seventeenth century and must have proved a powerful defensive position sitting atop a hill overlooking countryside on all sides. Now it seems largely unoccupied and derelict though there is a community of largely artists in residence. Moving on, the site was basic but quite adequate and the pitches level. Before leaving the following morning, we walked into the town for croissants and bread.
 
Our penultimate stop at Cambrai proved something of a disappointment though the municipal site was, as usual, of a high standard. We pondered on why we don't use municipals more often and will make a more determined effort to do so next time. Our travelling partners had connections with Cambrai from their student days so we agreed to stay two nights prior to moving on to our final site in Gines at La Belle Assise. From our point of view this proved a shame because though Cambrai is a reasonably sized provincial town it has little to commend it with regard to sightseeing.

La Belle Assise is well placed for Calais and has the added benefit of a superb restaurant adjacent to the site. Our final meal together proved excellent prior to a calm ferry crossing the following morning and going our separate ways after an excellent holiday lasting two days short of four weeks.

In all, we had travelled 1,848 miles with an average fuel consumption of 29.16 MPG - not bad for our AutoTrail Cheyenne. Out of interest the total fuel cost was £331.64.





Thursday 4 August 2011

Cornwall Short Break

Sunday 24th July and we set off towards Cornwall. The plan was to call in on our daughter and family who were on holiday near Hayle but we also would visit friends in Yelverton on the way.
First stop was a CL at Wishford, outside Salisbury. Arriving early afternoon, the site was in a small, generally flat, field behind the Ridgeley's bungalow. We were able to pitch easily, adjacent to a field with a couple of horses, the smallest of which, soon nicknamed Thelwell, providing much amusement as he cavorted around the field.



We enjoyed a circular walk around the village in weather that was not briliant but was dry. In the evening we took advantage of our satellite and watched a little television.
The following morning, we set sail for Yelverton. Though the summer holidays, the A303 was reasonably quiet and after a comfort break for a snack, we arrived at the CL in Horrabridge just north of Yelverton. An excellent CL with hardstanding for each of the available five pitches, we were soon settled and enjoying the obiligatory cup of tea.

Our friends arrived later and we spent a relaxed evening in their company. The following day we all visited Cothele House, a superb National Trust property with extensive gardens and a path down to the River Tamar.


Though we understand that the weather the previous week had been showery, we were fortunate as the sun shone.

Saying farewell to our friends who we would soon meet again on a tour of France and Spain commencing at the end of the month, the following morning we hit the road for Cornwall and the Caravan Club site at Godrevy. In the past this site had been a little too regimented but it was extremely convenient for our daughter and family as they were staying in a chalet across the road. In fact, the site was slightly more relaxed though very full. Cornwall in the school holidays would not normally be our first choice! We thoroughly enjoyed our two days together playing with the boys on the beach at Gwithian and walking across to St Michael's Mount on the south coast at Marazion.

All too soon we were on the go again, this time breaking the journey back home to Essex at the CL in Stourhead Park, another National Trust property. Renowned for the beauty of its gardens, Stourhead is a must for anyone interested in photography. Though a fair walk down from the house the resulting stroll around the lake is a just reward.


Even the rain added to the atmosphere and it soon cleared




The following morning we headed home. This time we were not so fortunate with the traffic with both the A303 and M25  proving busy. Reflecting upon our six days away, we concluded that we had been fortunate with the weather. In fact the only rain was whilst at Stourhead and this was short lived. For the main part it had been warm and sunny and we had thoroughly enjoyed the break.

Friday 17 June 2011

France, Switzerland and Italy June 2011

Leaving Dover, Monday 16th May, on our ferry of choice, Sea France, we enjoyed a calm and uneventful passage arriving at Calais at 10.15 am. Though not sunny the weather was dry and we made good time down to our first overnight at the municipal site Fismes. We have used this site in the past and it seems to have changed little. There were only two others there, confirming yet again how quiet French sites are out of season. All the pitches are fairly level, spacious and each supplied with its own water and electricity point. After a comfortable night, we set off for Epinal where we planned to stay the second night.

The site at Epinal, Parc du Chateau,  proved disappointing if only because there was a sparsity of water taps and toilet disposal was provided at the dump outside the site. This said, the pitches were a reasonable size and the location above the town very pleasant. We managed the fairly long stroll down to the town through the old castle grounds and, though the way was quite steep, we enjoyed the centre.

Switzerland beckoned the following morning and we set off for Luzern. The drive was a delight. The morning was clear which ensured we could appreciate the wonderful alpine scenery to the full. We had decided to splash out on the Camping International Lido since from this well appointed and spacious site we could walk along the lakeside to the town. Though 95 Swiss francs for two nights, far more than we would normally pay, the investment proved well worth it.


Luzern is a beautiful city positioned at the end of the lake and overseen by majestic snow covered mountain peaks.


We thoroughly enjoyed a day strolling around admiring the bridges and buildings whilst even managing the climb up to the city walls from where, again, we could admire the lake and beyond. Perhaps the greatest surprise was finding highland cattle and llamas quietly grazing in fields adjacent to the wall.


After two relaxing days, we travelled further south to our next site on the southern tip of Lake Lugano. For a major motorway, the A2 is an attractive route through the mountains with the amazing St Gotthard tunnel along the way. We left the motorway on a slight detour to Locarno where we eventually found an excellent aire just off the lakeside opposite the pool and lido.

With the sun continuing to shine the stroll into Locarno proved very pleasant as was the lunch.


Following our sojourn here, we took the far more attractive lakeside route down the side of Lake Maggiore prior to crossing over the hills to Ponte Tresa situated on the border between Switzerland and Italy. International Camping at Lavena Ponte Tresa is a beautifully located and quiet site with its own pass controlled access to the lakeside. A downside was that a two amp supply of electricity struggles to run anything except the fridge. Our two night stay here allowed us the time to take a cycle ride alongside the lake and into the town.


On a bustling Saturday morning, we were greeted with a large Market which seemed to sell everything from deliciously fresh oranges to clothing and assorted bric a brac.



Sunday beckoned with a long motorway haul to our next site situated in the south Tuscan hills. Tolls are not cheap in Italy though they are difficult to avoid if you wish to move at a  reasonable pace north to south. La Futa located in the Futa Pass is an excellent site with quite stunning panoramic views. The owners are particularly friendly and out of season we had the choice of some wonderful pitches.




Again booked in for two nights, we had the opportunity to visit the German war cemetery close to the site. Irrespective of which nationality, these huge cemeteries, tended with such care, can never fail to remind us of the utter futility of war.


Feeling fully refreshed after our short stay, again in brilliant sunshine, we left to make our way to Assisi.

Initial concerns on our arrival at Camping Fontemaggio in Assisi were soon dispelled.Our SatNav had not behaved at her best on our approach which had subsequently proved narrow, twisting and distinctly uphill and the site appeared unkempt. Concerns over the site were, in fact, completely unfounded. It was very quiet and our pitch was delightfully placed in the shade of olive trees.


Furthermore, for once, it was level. We had chosen the site because it suggested that it was in walking distance of Assisi and so it proved. After settling in we found the walk was probably slightly in excess of a kilometre and was an absolute delight with views stretching far over the plains below.


Assisi was everything you could possibly hope for and should not be missed by anyone travelling to Italy and particularly Umbria. Though very steep each turn provides a new vista to delight the eye. Returning to the camp site after a couple of hours we were both excited over the prospect of a more detailed inspection the following day.


On arrival back at the site, we were impressed with the menu on display for their restaurant and so determined to enjoy the local fare later that evening. This proved a good decision. The restaurant proved busy but not overcrowded and was clearly popular with locals - always a good sign. Meat was cooked over a large open grill and our meals were both well received, as was the Umbrian wine. This was clearly an experience to be repeated the following evening, not least because it represented extraordinary good value.

The following day we enjoyed a leisurely and extended exploration of Assisi. The Basilica di San Francesco, containing the tomb of St Francis is, of course, a must but the whole town is full of atmosphere and is perhaps best viewed quietly meandering around the narrow, and steep, roads and pathways.


We particularly enjoyed having lunch in the Piazza del Commune looking towards the temple of Minerva with its 1st Century façade constituting a row of six fluted columns with Corinthian capitals. In the afternoon, we struggled on the steep climb to the Rocca Maggiore with its splendid views over Assisi and the plain below the city.


We decided to spend a day travelling in a loop south of Assisi to explore some of the other towns. Our Aree di Sosti book proved invaluable with satnav taking us straight to aires. It is always a delight travelling on the continent where motorbikes are so well provided for with well positioned aires in virtually every town. At Socreto, the walk through the new town was far from inspiring but following a fair climb to the old town there was much to please the eye including the cathedral. An added bonus was finding a supermarket on the walk back to the aire which allowed us to replenish provisions. Our second stop at Todi proved even more of a delight. The aire is positioned below the town Walls with a funicular which takes you straight up to the main town.


Later in the day we booked into Camping Village Assisi. This is an ACSI  site that we had originally thought we would stay at for our visit to Assisi prior to finding Camping Fontemaggio We had made a good decision. Even out of season, the site was crowded and the pitches arranged in serried ranks. They provide a regular minibus service into Assisi but this is not the way we like to explore. Irritatingly, the Oyster satellite again proved unreliable, this time inexplicably failing to provide a signal through the Sky box. We are not avid television watchers but do like to keep up with the news and I get extremely frustrated when the technology fails me.

The following morning saw us travelling to Camping Del Rosa on the coast at Gatteo Mare. This was not so much an inspired choice but more a convenient one if we were to use an ACSI site and travel north avoiding the autoroute. It was though an opportunity to dip a tow in the Adriatic. The area was everything we expected but at least it was out of season and relatively quiet. Serried ranks of loungers along a beach is simply not our scene. The site was slightly better than we had anticipated though the lack of camper van facilities was irritating and necessitated use of bucket and watering can. Though wifi was free, it was not possible to make a connection on the iPad so of little use. A bonus has to be the continuing dry and how weather.

From Gatteo Mare, we headed across country to Ferrara where we found the airee di sosta in the centre of the town. The journey proved very pleasant but the condition of the road gave us some anxiety - it has to be said, not for the first time. Ferrara proved well worth the visit with a substantial and impressive castle in the middle of the town surrounded by equally impressive government buildings.


There was also a street market where we indulged ourselves with a tart and biscuits made by the lady on the stall.


We travelled on through Mantova which also looked inviting though we did not take the detour into the centre. We arrived at our next site, Parco al Po, at Cremona, near the bank of the Po. This was probably our most disappointing site so far. Unusually, it failed to match the description provided in both the ACSI book and Caravan Club directory. The reception was far from welcoming and the pitches beset with mosquitoes, one of which clawed its way into my flesh on arrival. The following morning we set off on a walk to the centre of Cremona encouraged both by the description of the town and the suggestion that it was but one and a half kilometres away. About three kilometres later we found ourselves in a rather nondescript centre entangled with a Sunday bicycle rally. Rather disheartened, we walked back to  the site which was some distance from the River Po though the site description suggest that it is on the bank.

We were not sorry to leave the following morning though, even then, we had an  argument with the receptionist who tried to insist that we should not pay ACSI rates for our stay!  It has to be said it is the first time in two years that there has ever been a dispute over ACSI rates which hitherto, has proved a superb deal.

The drive to Viverone for our next site on our travels north proved largely uninspiring though the extent of the rice fields was certainly impressive. We have not found it easy to find supermarkets in Italy during our travels and it was with some relief that we managed to replenish our stocks at a very welcoming supermarket in a small town en route. We arrived at our site on Lake Viverone rather early but what a pleasure it was. We were directed to our pitch by a character reminiscent of a young Steptoe and though we were rather shoehorned in, it was level with electricity to hand. The real bonus though was when we walked out of the site on to the bank of Lake Viverone.



Across the road from the site, the footpath stretched away in both directions with views across the lake to the mountains beyond. Though a little cloudy, this only served to provide a greater degree of atmosphere and we enjoyed a very pleasant evening walking along the side of the water, often accompanied by ducks and their new families.

On Tuesday 21st May, we left Lake Viverone at about 9.00 am on our drive through the Aosta valley to our next pitch at Sarre. Sadly, the cloud was down and the mountain tops were therefore largely hidden from view. This, though, did not detract too much from some spectacular scenery. On the way, we stopped at the Airee di Sosta in Aosta and had a look around the town where we found some spectacular Roman remains.


After lunch at the Airee, we travelled on the short distance to the site, Monte Bianco, arriving in rain. In the afternoon, we crossed the busy main road and climbed up to the town of Sarre. The evening was spent watching a film to the accompaniment of rain drumming on the roof.

The following morning saw us on the road again,  towards the Mont Blanc tunnel. Approaching the tunnel, a detour saw us exploring the mountains in greater detail than we had expected. You could only admire the skill of the lorry drivers who negotiated the hairpins with consummate ease. It was certainly a drive to remember. The tunnel cost an amazing 48 euros though we felt this was a worthwhile investment. Exiting the tunnel on the French side and driving into Chamonix we stopped to take some pictures of the snow storm – the temperature having dropped to 1 degree.


Only a few days before we had enjoyed temperatures of 36 degrees in Assisi! It was an extremely picturesque route down through the French Alps with the villages looking remarkably Swiss.



We finally arrived at Camping Europa, just past the centre of St Jorioz on the shores of Lake Annecy at about 2 pm. Again we enjoyed a lakeside walk looking across the water to snow clad mountains beyond. It was still cool, the temperature having risen to a respectable 8 degrees.

We left the site fairly early on a leg across country to our next stop at Pont de Vaux. Travelling on our usual D and N roads, the roads were even quieter than normal as 2nd June is a Public Holiday. The terrain was initially hilly particularly through the Gorge de L’Ain which was both steep and very attractive. We subsequently reached flatter country and stopped at a quiet car park in St Trivier de Courtes for lunch prior to moving on to the site.


Aux Rives du Soleil provided large pitches and was attractively presented. The only slight problem was an insistence on only emptying toilet waste if organic fluid had been used. This was the first, and thankfully the only, time we met such a restriction.

Again a fairly early start as we had decided on quite a lengthy  journey to Loche for our next stop where we thought we would stay two nights to provide an opportunity to look at the town. The journey was excellent and we managed to stock up on fuel and groceries in a large hypermarket en route. After a couple of short stops, we arrived at La Citadelle on the outskirts of the town. The site is attractive though surprisingly busy and for the first time predominantly with English campers though we had noticed an increase in English as we moved up through France.

We took the short walk along the river into Loche the following morning. What we found was a beautiful contained medieval city.


The Keep and Royal Lodge is well worth a visit and we didn’t hesitate to purchase the combined ticket to explore both these areas. Following two or three hours enjoying the sites, we bought bread and brie at the huge street market and ate it in the adjacent park.


After more quiet rambling around the streets in the afternoon, we returned to the motorhome prior to walking back to the park in the early evening. Loche should be on everyone’s itinerary.


On Sunday we left the site and headed further north. For the first time, our SatNav failed to provide the route we wanted so we resorted to the map. Again, we took advantage of “D” roads and travelled through several very attractive villages on our way to Durtal, near La Fleche. The site, Les Portes de l’Anjou, proved excellent and is situated on the bank of Le Loir. Our pitch overlooked the river and, after settling in and waiting for a thunderstorm to subside, we walked into Durtal which proved very attractive with an imposing chateau in the centre.


The beginning of our final week saw us heading for Ambrieres les Vallee. Again using “D” roads but, this time, ably assisted by our SatNav, we arrived in the early afternoon at Camping Le Parc de Vaux on the bank of La Varenne. This proved a beautiful site which forms part of a large sports complex and adjacent to an equestrian centre. Given the generally parlous state of our languages, we constantly admire the linguistic ability of many of those we meet on the continent. The site owner was multilingual, easily switching from French to German to English apparently quite seamlessly. Almost all of the sites we have stayed on are in the Camping Card ACSI book and this was no exception. 11 euros a night  all inclusive is certainly an extremely good deal for such an attractive and well appointed site. After settling in, we walked along the way marked footpath to Ambrieres les Vallees where we found an interesting orchard complex planted with community owned trees.

The following day we travelled to Neuchatel en Bray to our penultimate site of the holiday at Sainte Claire. This site is immaculately clean with well spaced pitches. The walk to the town is along the Avenue Verte which is a cycle/footpath along a disused railway track from Forges-les-Eaux to Dieppe. Neuchatel is quite a large provincial town and worth a visit. In the morning, we traveled along a picturesque route to Liques for our final stop at Pommiers des Trois Pays. We had made the error of booking an afternoon ferry the following day which actually left us too much time on our hands, particularly as Liques is not the most attractive of small towns. The ferry proved quiet and smooth and we arrived back at Dover in good time to clean down the ‘van on our usual CL prior to travelling home on the Friday morning.

It had proved a varied and very pleasant holiday over 26 days. The motorhome had behaved impeccably except for the inside handle on the habitation door failing to operate. A task which I will tackle, hopefully under warranty, now we are home.